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ULTIMATE SUIT GUIDE

Style slips faster than a pinch of sand on your hand, yet, menswear suits never disappear from gentlemen’s wardrobe from generation to generation. Dapper men consider a bespoke suit somehow a quintessential way to express his identity. Even a fashion maven could not remember how many types of suits have evolved since its first public appearance nearly four hundred years ago.

Fashionably speaking, I believe this is true since suits had been brought from Western to Asia from times to times with each time a complete transformation and significant modification. If British bloke prefers a more royal-influenced style of suits, American gentlemen usually go for corporate look.

Forget the intricate fabric composition; suits can be classified into four different types, which are double-breasted suit, three-button suit, traditional suit and blazer. Each has its own purpose to wear, which could enhance your features well.


Even though, the double-breasted type is arguably gentlemen’s most fashionable suit, however, this normally comes last on the list of four when it comes to formalwear (somehow called conservative wear). During the mid ‘30s-40s, it was once a true fashion desire for urban men and again came back during the early ‘80s and late ‘90s. The double-breasted suits are usually donned with a spread collared shirt, which can be a full-spread collar, a banker’s collar, a sculptured-spread collar, a cut-away collar or even a button-down collar for a more relaxing look.

It is because of its wide-spread collar, tie is usually knotted in Windsor style. To complement your double-breasted suits, you should opt for a more creative kind of shoes, which can be snake skin moccasin, loafer or buckle-styled shoes. If you prefer to have a Gatsby-styled look, the famous fedora hat is a must-have item.

Traditional suits or often referred as two-button suits are essential fashion pieces in every gentleman’s wardrobe. It is sometimes called a “Little Black Dress” version in every man’s wardrobe. Typically, traditional suits have a single vent in the back with such features as striped prints or solid colors. The delicately-sewed traditional suits are always a perfect choice for both formalwear and work wear.

Unlikely the three-button suits or double-breasted suits, traditional suits are less sensitive to the inevitable swing of fashion pendulum. Instead, it is faithful to structured shoulder pad. A true gentleman-in-style knows how to use different colors, pattern, ties & shirts rather than actual suit changing.

Wear a half-Windsor tie for a classier look or a full-Windsor one for a modern look. Pairing traditional suits with wing-tip shoes is always an ideal option to highlight your smart look.

This is considered the most contemporary form of suits that allows wearers mix’n’match in a variety of styles, from sporty to preppy look. The blazer with its easier and less constructive cuts offers young men a more approachable look to formalwear. With an increasing popularity of fast-paced fashion chains like ZARA, H&M, TOPSHOP, what was once limited to businessmen has evolved over the years to become a must-have fashion item from seasons to seasons. Believe it or now, fashion amateurs normally start up with a pair of blazers first.

Blazer is available in a variety of forms, colors and styles such as linen, creased leathers or even tweed, which allows wearer to freely personalize it in bespoke ways. Faithful to its original constructed shapes, blazers has only experienced a little modification over the years.

Depending on wearers’ option, blazers could be worn as much bizarre as Neil Diamond or as subtle as Zac Efron. To relax the look, you could opt for oxford shirt made of linen and wingtip-styled shoes. Nevertheless, the pre-assumption of only donning blazer to casual event has proven it’s wrong.  Put on a half-Windsor knotted tie is a solution to that. Similar to double-breasted suits, loafers, moccasin and buckle shoes are a perfect way to complement your look as definitely.

Vent is usually a primary source to distinct the differences between traditional suits and three-button suits. Normally, three-button suits have no vent in the back. However, you can easily find a three-button suit with single or double vents in the back occasionally. To highlight its classy appearance, standard collar, pointed collar or tab collar are highly recommended.

To complement your three-button suits, cap-toe styled or square-toe styled shoes are always a perfect choice. Nevertheless, square-toe shoes tend to be out of trend very fast. Therefore, avoiding those with big square-toe is a smart choice.

1.  Never wear a four-in-hand necktie knot with a spread collar shirt.

2. Business commuters should opt for either briefcases or totes instead of backpacks. They will definitely ruin your delicate suit fabric.

*Wardrobe4x4 takes measures to credit all original image sources.

**Wardrobe4x4 does not claim ownership over all images in this site and will oblige to remove any images upon request of the original copyright holder.

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